Take Five With Barb Paldus, Founder Of Codex Beauty Labs: Cruelty-Free & Vegan Skincare

Blending a carefully selected fusion of ethnobotany (the study of the relationship between people and plants) and genetics with innovative biotechnology, Codex Beauty Labs create powerful but gentle plant-based biotech beauty solutions for all that give 100% vegan and cruelty-free skincare.

But what started Codex, and what makes them different to other skincare companies? Today, we’re talking to Barb Paldus, the scientist and founder behind Codex Beauty Labs, to introduce you to the person behind the brand.

A Background In Science

“I became a scientist primarily because my father allowed me to be curious in the 70’s when girls were really not supposed to be scientists or nerdy – they were very different times to today!” Barb said. Starting a founding company in her 20’s, and selling a second company in 2017, Barb had a plethora of experience behind her in leadership and scientific innovation. But it wasn’t until she realised that her son had an allergy to a common skincare ingredient that things changed for Barb.

The Beginning Of Codex Beauty Labs

“Codex started because my son, as a baby, had an allergy to Phenoxyethanol – one of the most common preservatives used in cosmetics and I couldn’t understand why.” Barb explained. “The first thing we ended up developing was a new preservation system that is now patented and is called Preservex. It’s made from ferment of Lactobacillus - a bacteria that’s natural to your microbiome. We thought we would sell it to the industry, but because it was about 18c a bottle, nobody wanted to buy it. Nobody wanted to pay 18c for skin health! So, then we thought okay, we’re going to demonstrate how this preservation system works, and we acquired an Irish company and reformulated Preservex. Then I realised there was a lot more to the microbiome.”

Barb also realised that there was a lot more to clinically proven skincare too – and because of her love of measuring everything and analysing ingredients and results, Codex Beauty Labs began undertaking clinical trials. “We started developing products for different skin conditions - like our Bia line which is good for eczema. Bia was our first collection.” Barb said. “Then we developed Antü for skin inflammation - for people exposed to pollution in urban environments, psoriasis, and rosacea.”

The Importance Of Your Microbiome Health

As Barb’s journey into skincare and the science behind it continued, she really started to understand just how important the health of our skin microbiome is – and how taking protective measures with our skincare could prevent future issues.

“Our outside most layer of skin is about as thin as a human hair - that’s basically what’s between us and the environment. It’s what keeps all our water in, keeps us from dehydration, and keeps all the infections and viruses out of our body. It’s formed by two pieces," Barb said. “One is the skin cells that we can think of as the bricks and mortar. On top of that is the microbiome which is home to trillions of bacteria and fungi, including yeasts, and other things. There are over 2000 species. They take the hits from things like UV rays and viral infections They respond on our behalf and communicate with our immune system. Many skin diseases are linked to microbiome disorders. It’s important to take care of our microbiome.”

Barb went on to explain that it’s imperative to keep a balance with our microbiome and not strip it of too much oil. ”Shaant [the brand's range for oily and acne prone skin] took a long time to develop, as you want to remove excess oil but not too much oil, as then you weaken the skin barrier. A 4.5-5.5 pH is ideal. But most face washes have a much higher pH. The squeaky-clean feeling you sometimes get is actually bad - it means it’s taken everything out of your face.”

The Development And Clinical Testing Process

Codex Beauty Labs have their own lab where they develop and test the products before they go on to hit the shelves. They begin their formula innovations by starting with ethnobotanists - people who explore how plants are used in medicine. Barb said, “for the Shaant collection, we relied on Ayurvedic medicine and Irish ethnobotanists.”

But what exactly does the development and testing process involve? Barb explained that at Codex Beauty Labs, it happens in several stages.

• Ethnobotanist research into the plants as the base for the formula
• Gene Expression (to see how the plants work on skin cells)
• Triage (where the scientists decide on which has the best functionality)
• Formulation (where the products are made)
• Irritation and allergy testing
• Patch testing
• Efficacy testing
• Microbiome-friendliness testing
• Cruelty-free and vegan assurance
• EWG certification and eco trials
• Clinical trials

“The whole process takes around two-to-three years,” said Barb. “The clinical trial is 28 days. It’s a lot of effort. We spend about half a million dollars to clinically test the products. We are deadly serious about knowing how the products work. We want to educate the consumer and want people to know exactly what they’re getting for their money.”

As Barb explains, most brands look at publications on the ingredients and put them together to see how they work. But adding formulations together can change the efficacy. So instead, Barb and her team take a thorough, measured approach.

For example, if they claim a product reduces sebum, they measure the sebum rate and the concentration of the sebum on the skin to understand the amount of reduction. If they claim a product hydrates, they will measure the hydration with a corneometer so they know the exact levels.

“We measure everything because we want to know. And sometimes products don’t pass and we have to go back and figure out why, and we have to reformulate it.” Barb said. “We don’t get everything right the first time.”

Receiving The Seal Of Excellence

When we asked Barb what her proudest moment has been so far, she told us she has two moments: “The first was when we were awarded the Seal of Excellence from the National Eczema Association, and the Seal of Excellence from the National Psoriasis Foundation.” Barb said. “We knew our clinical validation was being appreciated by dermatologists. We were super proud that we were able to receive both of those. Our entire Antü collection is considered safe for psoriasis.”

What You Need To Know About Codex Beauty Labs

Barb told us that there are a few main things to know about Codex Beauty Labs – the first that being vegan and cruelty-free are non-negotiables. Second and third. the brand has a focus on microbiome health, and solving skin conditions, so giving clinical proof is important. “We want to be the go-to for people with red itchy patches, red inflamed patches, acne…we want to know what we’re giving people works.” Barb said. 

Discover The Codex Beauty Labs Shaant Collection

Created for irritated, greasy, acne-prone skin, the Shaant collection contains the ShaantComplexTM – a scientifically proven complex to reduce redness, shrink pores, and decrease sebum production.

We recommend: Shaant Balancing Clay Mask 

Developed with the brand's revolutionary ShaantComplex, this oil-controlling mask helps to purify your complexion whilst managing acne flare-ups. 

Formulated with 2% betonite, ShaantComplex, and antioxidant-rich turmeric, the mask helps to brighten and even your skin tone. With the addition of starches from rice and corn that act like sponges, excess oil is absorbed, leaving you with a balanced, refreshed complexion that feels calm. 

Discover The Codex Beauty Labs Antü Collection

With the AntuComplexTM that’s scientifically proven to soothe itchiness and reduce the appearance of redness, repair, support, and protect your skin barrier with the Antü collection.

We recommend: Antü Brightening Serum

This antioxidant-rich serum is formulated with hyaluronic acid to help to hydrate your skin – leaving it plumped and firmer.

The serum works to reverse the signs of inflammaging (a combination of inflammation and ageing) using the potent AntüComplex™ - giving you a protected and nourished skin barrier.

Clinically proven to defend against exposure to airborne particulate matter pollutants, the serum also works to firm and re-densify your skin.

Discover the Codex Beauty Labs Bia Collection

Address skin dehydration with the Bia collection. Cruelty free skincare ideal for dry, flaky, and itchy skin, and skin that needs a helping hand with moisture retention.  

We recommend: Bia Skin Superfood

Infused with BiaComplex™, this hydrating multi-tasking moisturiser is clinically proven to soften your skin whilst calming irritation. Suitable for your hands, face, and body, the formula is blended with key actives like omega-3, vitamin B12, and potent antioxidants, to tackle flakiness whilst restoring your skin barrier.